|
|
| Dropping your four cylinder engine |
HOW TO DROP YOUR FOUR CILINDER ENGINE - part 3
By Mark D'Bernardi
Loosen (don't remove) the nut on the clutch cable pulley using a cresent wrench.
When the pulley is loose enough you will be able to slide the cable out the side between the pulley and the guide.
There is a locking ring behind all that oil that goes around the cable and has a tab that is bent into a hole.
Use a screwdriver to pry it free.
Here is the locking ring once it's free.
You'll need to completely remove the nuts, ring, etc. and pull the cable through the small hole in the engine mount bar.
Remove the speedometer cable connection from the angle drive by unscrewing it.
Adjustable jaw pliers or a large cresent wrench may be necessary.
Disconnect the heater hoses from the flapper boxes.
Time to get the floor jack out. This is the spot you should aim for to get the engine and tranny in decent balance.
You can use a block of wood to protect the engine case, but it often makes the assembly too tall to sneak out from under the car. I don't use wood.
Once the jack is lifted enough that it raises the car an inch or so you're ready for the final step.
Undo the tranny mounts (13 mm wrench).
You must use a second 13 mm wrench to hold the bolt from turning.
Finally, remove the engine mount bolts (17 mm wrench top and bottom).
The top one is hard to get to. I use a 3/8" drive socket wrench to get down in there.
Everything is free, so slowly lower the engine to the ground watching for things that might be hanging up. Once it's fully lowered, pull it out the back of the car.
You have to maneuver the drive shafts over the engine as you go.
Freedom!
« back to part 2
|
|
