i do appreciate the input. and i can post a few pictures of the plugs which actually looked really good if not slightly lean, eventhough the AFR seems to indicate more rich which leads me to believe that the AFT is not that accurate, especially at idle,
you cant compare to a mustang and i would say that if your running 14-15 you are way too lean for an air cooled motor and your head temsp will be high. when i raised my fuel pressure up to 34-35 my head temps improved, my AFR was reading more in the 12.5-13 range and plug color is almost perfect. i prbably am not running that rich just going by the plug color.
at this point id be happy if could go back a day and NOT make that last adjustment,
i need to increase enrichment at part-load with out making idle more rich or WOT/full load.
I can put that T in and check that vac load at cruising or slight acceleration to see if i am in that 5psi range if thats what we define as part load. too bad there is not a in line vac gauge that had blue tooth conneciton to be able to hook up and monitor while driving.
QUOTE(BeatNavy @ Nov 29 2021, 09:42 AM)
Phil, a couple of thoughts from me.
@Frank S , IIRC, suggested one way to identify "part load," or that point at which manifold vacuum is in the 4-5 psi range, is to run a "T" vacuum fitting off of your MPS to a hose with vacuum gauge in the cabin. It'll give you a better sense of what driving conditions are for your engine at "part load." In my case I found it instructive, and you can base your AFR numbers accordingly. Simply cruising down the road doesn't take much load or HP in most cases, so take AFR there with at least a little grain of salt, especially if you can monitor head temps accurately.
Do yo have an inductance meter to measure what it is you are changing, or are you going by AFR readings alone? If the latter, I think that's hard to do with much precision. I think you sort of need to ballpark it at that point and see how the car feels under different circumstances.
Take idle AFR readings on a T4 with a big grain of salt. Too many variations in exhaust and O2 setup, plus the exhaust gasses move too slowly through the system to put too much stock in them. I know it's tempting (I do it too), but you need to use other clues like smell and the nature of the idle (is it too low, too high, does it react a lot with small changes in air, etc.). Your idle mixture should be primarily controlled at the ECU. I imagine the ECU "slope" has some effect on that (or not, maybe someone can enlighten us), but get fuel pressure where it should be and then use the ECU.
Don't ditch the D-Jet. Carbs present their own set of issues. Also, I'm running Microsquirt, which I really enjoy, but it's not a panacea either. Still lots of fiddling and experimenting. The upside is that it's much easier to do the fiddling and measure the results.
Much smarter and more experienced people than me can chime in now
QUOTE(emerygt350 @ Nov 29 2021, 11:19 AM)
same boat here but with a stock 2.0. When we finished at the dyno I was still running really rich up over 4k WOT and leanish below 4k. Idle was at 13.5 which I consider rich but as beatnavy said, it idles good, smells fine, and revs correctly so I am choosing to ignore that.
Part throttle cruising can be leaner than 14.7 and be ok since you are not loading the engine. In my old CFI mustang it will bounce around 14.3-15.3ish while cruising. When we were tuning it on the dyno (tangerine setup as well) part load settings seemed pretty good.
I just got my AFR meter in the mail today for the porsche. As soon as it warms up a little I will get it installed and check out what mine is doing on a non-dyno afr.