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> Getting the lead out, Wondering if lead is as good as Bondo
worn
post May 13 2026, 07:56 PM
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Well, some old geezer showing signs of wear backed his son’s new to him pickup into his own TR6. I have the fender off and have corrected most of the problems with hammer and dolly, but there are cuts in the metal and tool marks that are too much for my skills. I had an Eastwood lead solder kit, so why not go with that. Works just fine actually. But is lead as good as modern plastic filler? Over the long run, which is more dependable. It is kinda fun, but nowhere as versatile as the plastic fillers.
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Shivers
post May 13 2026, 08:25 PM
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Lead does not shrink or crack but it is heavy. If it is a small repair lead is nice.
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Ninja
post May 13 2026, 09:30 PM
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Bondo shrinks with age.
Bondo WILL delaminate from the base material someday.
Paint fades differently over Bondo.
Most Bondo applications will "print through" after 20 years.

Lead doesn't seem to have issues with age.
Every S30 Datsun (1970 was first year) has a BIG patch of lead where the top meets the sides (above the quarter windows).
Unless the car has suffered a rear impact this area never requires repair.

Only issues I see with lead is difficult application.

When I install my 914 flares, I will use lead (or whatever modern metallic substitute is available) for the filler.

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mgphoto
post May 13 2026, 10:53 PM
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I learned how to lead when I went to body shop school. It uses tallow, a bio product, and dangerous to work, it’s bad to breathe, impossible to clean which causes oxidation.
Body fillers are talcum powder and epoxy, high quality fillers are easy to sand, all metal work should be no more than 1mm off the surface. You need a really high quality epoxy primer to seal the filler.
My repairs are going on 13 years.
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