Engine Install Tips, 914-6 Order of Operations Options

[DennisV]

If things go well next week, I might be able to take a run at installing the engine in our 914-6.

What should I do to prep for the marriage and / or a sequence of events should I follow to be most efficient? I’ve reviewed the Removing and Installing Engine section in the factory workshop manual. Any advice in addition, or contrary, to those steps?

CURRENTLY
* Engine is on a test stand
* Transmission is on the floor
* Chassis is on its wheels on a 4 post lift
* Drive shafts are attached to the stub axle on the car
* Wiring harness is on engine
* Engine bay is pretty bare. No oil hoses, fuel hoses, fuel pump, engine wiring harness.


ASSUMPTIONS
Before Engine In Car
* Mate transmission to engine
* Remove air cleaner
* Oil hoses routed in engine bay
* Fuel lines installed
* Fuel hoses routed in engine bay
* Fuel pump mounted
* Heat exchangers on engine (ideally, but…)

After Engine In Car
* Drive shafts attached
* Shift rod
* Muffler
* Hot air ducts, flaps
* Air cleaner

QUESTIONS
* Will the ramps or cross-beams of the lift cause clearance or height issues? Below is a shot of the lift.
* Will it be a problem to install the heat exchangers after the engine is in the car? They won’t clear to supports on the test stand.
* Should I install the oil and fuel hoses in the engine bay first?
* If I use the parts catalog listed length on hoses, will I be OK? Or will I wish I hadn't cut the hoses to length until the engine is in?

Thank you.

[VaccaRabite]

Since your car is on a lift, put the engine and transmission on a motorcycle/transmission jack and lower the car on to the engine, using the transmission jack to do minute movements. The cross bar may interfere at the back of the 4 post lift. Or it may not. Hard to say given that photo.

Zach

[DennisV]

Since your car is on a lift, put the engine and transmission on a motorcycle/transmission jack and lower the car on to the engine, using the transmission jack to do minute movements. The cross bar may interfere at the back of the 4 post lift.

Hi Zach,

I have the Wilding Engineering 911 engine cradle adapter for a floor jack. Do floor jacks not normally raise high enough? Thus the need for a transmission jack?

I have some room to roll the car forward on the ramps, if the rear cross bar is the main concern. I wasn't sure about the minimum clearance needed between the ramps. I will also be limited to how much I can lower the lift, based on the floor jack. Maybe that's a non issue if the floor jack can lift high enough.

[mlindner]

What six are you installing, or better yet what are you using for lower valve covers. If turbo fined style you will want to have them shaved so removal is possible for valve adjusting. Best, Mark

[DennisV]

What six are you installing, or better yet what are you using for lower valve covers. If turbo fined style you will want to have them shaved so removal is possible for valve adjusting.

I'm installing a factory 914-6 engine. I kept the original lower valve covers and sent them with the engine to the machine shop to make sure they were flat. I didn't use the turbo-style on the bottom, but thanks for the reminder on that.

[Tom1394racing]

I did the recently and waited to install the CV/Axle assemblies after the engine was installed. Pretty tricky with the rear suspension and heat exchangers installed.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=372298&hl=

You might consider installing the CV/axles to the rear hubs before the engine goes in.

[DennisV]

I did the recently and waited to install the CV/Axle assemblies after the engine was installed. Pretty tricky with the rear suspension and heat exchangers installed.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=372298&hl=

You might consider installing the CV/axles to the rear hubs before the engine goes in.

Good thread. Thanks for sharing.

CV/axles are already attached to rear hubs. Rear suspension is in. Heat exchangers are currently in a box.