Having a 2056 built for my 75 914, Anything I should consider? Options

[TRP]

As the title states, I'm having Ken Jansen build me a 2056 for my current 1.8l powered 914. I plan on keeping the LJet and 1.8 heat exchanger / Bursch exhaust system.

We are starting with a 1.8 block and 1.8 heads (I purchased a 1.8 core) locally. Ken will be providing a 2.0 std/std crank and all of the required bearings and gaskets/seals.

I have already purchased:
- Raby 9590 Deluxe Cam (with Cam Gear, new lifters, pushrod, heavy duty rocker shafts, springs, and 911 valve adjustment feet.)
- 1.7 OEM Rocker Arms
- OEM oil cooler
- 30mm Full flow oil pump & Full flow (purchased from Raby)
- ARP Case Studs
- ARP Head Studs
- JE Forged 96mm Pistons and cylinders
- Matched set OEM std 2.0 Rods
- Oil galley threaded plugs
- GoWesty Throttle body
- Setrab Series 6, 25 row oil cooler with fan pack and thermostat
- New OEM clutch pressure plate and friction disc
- Advanced 123 Distributor for LJet EFI

Ken will be balancing the complete rotating assembly, including flywheel and pressure plate. He will also rebuilt the 1.8 heads, most likely going with 2.0 sized valves, May go slightly larger to match Jake's suggested valve sizes (Ken isn't sure about the necessity, I personally think we should.) We are cleaning the oil gallies and tapping the plug holes. Shooting for 8.5:1 compression ratio.

Anything else I should consider?

Thanks,
Ted

[emerygt350]

Maybe i missed it but that raby cam might be good. I have heard it helps keep the temps down. Others know better than I though.

[914werke]

You might consider 2.0L heads rather than putting money into the 1.8L units.
Sell them to a 1.7L owner & recoup some funds...!

[TRP]

I spoke with Jake about my desire to keep the L Jet and the 9590 is what he suggested. I had considered the 2.0 heads, but that would lead to needing new exhaust and new intake runners etc.

I could consider sone heads from the guy down south who does magic with 914 heads. I'm assuming Im leaving some HP on the table, however I'm undecided on which way to go there because of the Ljet. Ken can work some magic on my 1.8 heads and get some of that back, if you all think it's worth it. I know the 2.0 heads have the spark plugs are in a more optimal place, but again... requires new tins, etc.

What am I leaving on the table with the 1.8 heads? Keeping in mind the LJet and 9590 cam?

Thanks!

[emerygt350]

Ahh, I see the cam now.

[porschetub]

As the title states, I'm having Ken Jansen build me a 2056 for my current 1.8l powered 914. I plan on keeping the LJet and 1.8 heat exchanger / Bursch exhaust system.

We are starting with a 1.8 block and 1.8 heads (I purchased a 1.8 core) locally. Ken will be providing a 2.0 std/std crank and all of the required bearings and gaskets/seals.

I have already purchased:
- Raby 9590 Deluxe Cam (with Cam Gear, new lifters, pushrod, heavy duty rocker shafts, springs, and 911 valve adjustment feet.)
- 1.7 OEM Rocker Arms
- OEM oil cooler
- 30mm Full flow oil pump & Full flow (purchased from Raby)
- ARP Case Studs
- ARP Head Studs
- JE Forged 96mm Pistons and cylinders
- Matched set OEM std 2.0 Rods
- Oil galley threaded plugs
- GoWesty Throttle body
- Setrab Series 6, 25 row oil cooler with fan pack and thermostat
- New OEM clutch pressure plate and friction disc

Ken will be balancing the complete rotating assembly, including flywheel and pressure plate. He will also rebuilt the 1.8 heads, most likely going with 2.0 sized valves, May go slightly larger to match Jake's suggested valve sizes (Ken isn't sure about the necessity, I personally think we should.) We are cleaning the oil gallies and tapping the plug holes. Shooting for 8.5:1 compression ratio.

Anything else I should consider?

Thanks,
Ted

Best to stick with the 914 1.8 K-jet heads as they already have the bigger valves to suit your injection ,the 2.0 heads used smaller valves to work with D-jet ,you will have increased flow due to increased cylinder volume and larger TB and you need to feed that with the 1.8 41 x 34 mm valves that they come that head.
Full rebuild on them and you be good ,new valves ,guides and flycut sealing surfaces and 3 angle valve grind you will be good .

[porschetub]

As the title states, I'm having Ken Jansen build me a 2056 for my current 1.8l powered 914. I plan on keeping the LJet and 1.8 heat exchanger / Bursch exhaust system.

We are starting with a 1.8 block and 1.8 heads (I purchased a 1.8 core) locally. Ken will be providing a 2.0 std/std crank and all of the required bearings and gaskets/seals.

I have already purchased:
- Raby 9590 Deluxe Cam (with Cam Gear, new lifters, pushrod, heavy duty rocker shafts, springs, and 911 valve adjustment feet.)
- 1.7 OEM Rocker Arms
- OEM oil cooler
- 30mm Full flow oil pump & Full flow (purchased from Raby)
- ARP Case Studs
- ARP Head Studs
- JE Forged 96mm Pistons and cylinders
- Matched set OEM std 2.0 Rods
- Oil galley threaded plugs
- GoWesty Throttle body
- Setrab Series 6, 25 row oil cooler with fan pack and thermostat
- New OEM clutch pressure plate and friction disc

Ken will be balancing the complete rotating assembly, including flywheel and pressure plate. He will also rebuilt the 1.8 heads, most likely going with 2.0 sized valves, May go slightly larger to match Jake's suggested valve sizes (Ken isn't sure about the necessity, I personally think we should.) We are cleaning the oil gallies and tapping the plug holes. Shooting for 8.5:1 compression ratio.

Anything else I should consider?

Thanks,
Ted

Best to stick with the 914 1.8 K-jet heads as they already have the bigger valves to suit your injection ,the 2.0 heads used smaller valves to work with D-jet ,you will have increased flow due to increased cylinder volume and larger TB and you need to feed that with the 1.8 41 x 34 mm valves that they come that head.
Full rebuild on them and you be good ,new valves ,guides and flycut sealing surfaces and 3 angle valve grind you will be good .

[brant]

Stock 1.8 heads have 41/34

Stock 2.0 heads have 42/36 valves, not smaller

[porschetub]

Stock 1.8 heads have 41/34

Stock 2.0 heads have 42/36 valves, not smaller

Thanks for picking me up on that ,had bus heads stuck in my mind for some strange reason (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

[JamesM]

Consider that L-jet is 50 years old, new parts are not available, and an issue with fueling can roast your brand new motor.

[930cabman]

I would go with new larger valve heads with twin Webers

[pete-stevers]

I would be interested in knowing the increase in hp with Webers, if any one knows

[Superhawk996]

I would be interested in knowing the increase in hp with Webers, if any one knows

Zero.

Carbs alone don’t increase HP.

Carbs with a cam, increased compression ratio, headers and free flow exhaust . . . Maybe assuming it’s all properly tuned.

Bottom line is induction (including modern EFI) doesn’t make horsepower on its own.

[pete-stevers]

I would be interested in knowing the increase in hp with Webers, if any one knows

Zero.

Carbs alone don’t increase HP.

Carbs with a cam, increased compression ratio, headers and free flow exhaust . . . Maybe assuming it’s all properly tuned.

Bottom line is induction (including modern EFI) doesn’t make horsepower on its own.

the 2056 with with these mods will make more power than a stock 2.0.. we are talking about the 2056 and I am looking to see if anyone knows the bump in hp while using the carbs , cams, head mods, etc posted here.. So to be specific this 2056 recipe with Weber 40 carbs.. tuned
I have a stock 2.0 four and am interested to see what increases one would see after the mods to a 2.0 are done with this recipe....

[JamesJ]

I spoke with Jake about my desire to keep the L Jet and the 9590 is what he suggested. I had considered the 2.0 heads, but that would lead to needing new exhaust and new intake runners etc.

I could consider sone heads from the guy down south who does magic with 914 heads. I'm assuming Im leaving some HP on the table, however I'm undecided on which way to go there because of the Ljet. Ken can work some magic on my 1.8 heads and get some of that back, if you all think it's worth it. I know the 2.0 heads have the spark plugs are in a more optimal place, but again... requires new tins, etc.

What am I leaving on the table with the 1.8 heads? Keeping in mind the LJet and 9590 cam?

Thanks!

Oh, he does magic alright. My #1 piston was hitting my valve, among other issues.

Too many heat cycles on old heads.

I have 42x36 new EMPI heads on a 2056 with L-jet with a GoWesty TB.
Runs like a champ.

Get a 123 and you'll be all set.

[TRP]

If you were going to build a 2056 and run carbs, you should choose a different cam. The cam I chose is specifically chosen for the LJet EFI.

As far as I understand- with a better cam and 2L heads, and a 2L exhaust you should expect somewhere around 120-130hp conservatively.

[TRP]

If you were going to build a 2056 and run carbs, you should choose a different cam. The cam I chose is specifically chosen for the LJet EFI.

As far as I understand- with a better cam and 2L heads, and a 2L exhaust you should expect somewhere around 120-130hp conservatively.

Oh, I thought I had included that in my 'purchased list' - I have the LJet specific 123 Distributor. I will edit my original post to add that in. Good catch!

I want a strong and reliable motor with low end power/torque.

[Jack Standz]

As the title states, I'm having Ken Jansen build me a 2056 for my current 1.8l powered 914. I plan on keeping the LJet and 1.8 heat exchanger / Bursch exhaust system.

We are starting with a 1.8 block and 1.8 heads (I purchased a 1.8 core) locally. Ken will be providing a 2.0 std/std crank and all of the required bearings and gaskets/seals.

I have already purchased:
- Raby 9590 Deluxe Cam (with Cam Gear, new lifters, pushrod, heavy duty rocker shafts, springs, and 911 valve adjustment feet.)
- 1.7 OEM Rocker Arms
- OEM oil cooler
- 30mm Full flow oil pump & Full flow (purchased from Raby)
- ARP Case Studs
- ARP Head Studs
- JE Forged 96mm Pistons and cylinders
- Matched set OEM std 2.0 Rods
- Oil galley threaded plugs
- GoWesty Throttle body
- Setrab Series 6, 25 row oil cooler with fan pack and thermostat
- New OEM clutch pressure plate and friction disc
- Advanced 123 Distributor for LJet EFI

Ken will be balancing the complete rotating assembly, including flywheel and pressure plate. He will also rebuilt the 1.8 heads, most likely going with 2.0 sized valves, May go slightly larger to match Jake's suggested valve sizes (Ken isn't sure about the necessity, I personally think we should.) We are cleaning the oil gallies and tapping the plug holes. Shooting for 8.5:1 compression ratio.

Anything else I should consider?

Thanks,
Ted

Your car, so do it your way. Sorry, but, since you've already purchased all these parts, it seems a little odd that you're asking for advice now? Generally, what you've got planned is great. Balancing everything is also a great plan.

You haven't said what your plans are for the car or how much you've budgeted for this project. Suppose it's for the street. Objectively, for what you're investing in this motor, you could build a 2.3 liter that realistically could make as much as 180 HP.

With that said, you've made some compromises. The 9590 is a very good cam, especially if you absolutely must stick with the stock FI. Otherwise, modern FI or carbs can get you "better" performance without the limitations of the stock FI (depending on your plans for the car) for less money i.e. Webcam. Carbs work great on a 50 year old VW motor, very tunable and are less money (than a GoWesty throttle body), if modern FI isn't a viable option. You could use the cam savings on a stroker crankshaft like a 78mm stroke (you're planning on buying a stock 2 liter crankshaft anyway, just get a 78mm one from DPR instead). If you decide to go this way, adjust the compression ratio to your camshaft maker's recommendations.

JE pistons are very good pistons, but some believe the KBs are better suited for a street motor. Consider boring the OEM cylinders to 96mm and using KB pistons (use the savings on a 78mm crankshaft from DPR).

1.8 heads are OK, but as you already know, 2 liter ones have better performance possibilities (better combustion chamber, plug location). Rather than rebuild the 1.8 ones (assuming that's possible with 50 year old heads), new "2 liter" heads (bare, so you can choose the valve sizes) are available from AA pistons for $420.

But, as already mentioned, it's your car and your decision. Our thoughts are probably worth about what you've paid for them (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif). You have a great plan and best wishes for your project.

[mate914]

I have two 6 cylinder cars now. If I was ever going to install a type four again. I would build a 2.3 with aftermarket FI. You are so right.
Matt


You haven't said what your plans are for the car or how much you've budgeted for this project. Suppose it's for the street. Objectively, for what you're investing in this motor, you could build a 2.3 liter that realistically could make as much as 180 HP.

With that said, you've made some compromises. The 9590 is a very good cam, especially if you absolutely must stick with the stock FI. Otherwise, modern FI or carbs can get you "better" performance without the limitations of the stock FI (depending on your plans for the car) for less money i.e. Webcam. Carbs work great on a 50 year old VW motor, very tunable and are less money (than a GoWesty throttle body), if modern FI isn't a viable option. You could use the cam savings on a stroker crankshaft like a 78mm stroke (you're planning on buying a stock 2 liter crankshaft anyway, just get a 78mm one from DPR instead). If you decide to go this way, adjust the compression ratio to your camshaft maker's recommendations.

JE pistons are very good pistons, but some believe the KBs are better suited for a street motor. Consider boring the OEM cylinders to 96mm and using KB pistons (use the savings on a 78mm crankshaft from DPR).

1.8 heads are OK, but as you already know, 2 liter ones have better performance possibilities (better combustion chamber, plug location). Rather than rebuild the 1.8 ones (assuming that's possible with 50 year old heads), new "2 liter" heads (bare, so you can choose the valve sizes) are available from AA pistons for $420.

But, as already mentioned, it's your car and your decision. Our thoughts are probably worth about what you've paid for them (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif). You have a great plan and best wishes for your project.
[/quote]

[TRP]

I thought a while about building a 2.3, after adding up the costs associated with going to a larger displacement I decided on a well built 2056.

Going to a 2.3 snowballs pretty quickly when you consider that when you're at that displacement you would want at least a 2.0 exhaust or custom header/exhaust, custom heads, nickies, dual carbs and linkage. If you have that much power you're going to want the ability to put it on the ground so then 15x6 or 15x7 Fuchs with good meaty tires, which means pulled/rolled fenders. With all that, you have to tune the carbs and mess with idle jets and synchronization. All that makes me want to start drinking... which means lots of IPAs at 8 dollars per can... and top shelf burbon. Next thing you know I'm strungout and selling my old man body on the street corner to pay the bills. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I have two classics to drive and maintain, which takes a bit od my time. My wife likes the 914 because it isn't raw, rowdy and aggressive like the C2. Keeping the 914 tame will provide reliability and spirited driving around the hills and backroads. If I want to go fast in a Porsche I just hop in my 500hp 2025 Cayenne GTS.- That car is an animal! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/evilgrin.gif)

I appreciate the insight and cautionary advice on the 2.3, I really thought long and hard about it. I'm stepping up from a tires 1.8.

I should have clarified when I started this thread to double check my build / parts list. Knowing that I'm after torque, factory heat, and longevity. What do you guys think? Should I go up on the valve sizes (42x36?) or stick with the 1.8 valve sizes? I'm really after torque/acceleration, peak HP isn’t my end goal.

Thanks again