Ninja Tip: change to my brake bleeding procedure Options

[Ninja]

I've been wrenching forever but I never stop learning or adapting...

Noticed something doing brakes on a one ton Ford van that I replaced calipers on.

The brand-new Ford calipers were painted black, and I was being careful to NOT leave any brake fluid on the calipers as it will eat the paint.

For the last 30 years my final step after all the bleeding is done is to use a blow tip and lightly blow out the bleeders then put a little dab of silly grease in the rubber cap.
The intention here is to reduce the possibility of rust.

This time I was using a blow gun with a needle tip and the needle tip slid into the bleeder vent while running air...

What happened is it pressurized the bleeder internally and a BUNCH of brake fluid ran out of the threads between the bleeder and the caliper body. Enough that it ran down the body of the caliper and dripped on the ground. Recleaned the caliper and then shot a little WD/40 into the bleeder hole and hit it again with the air.

This time I got WD coming out of the threads. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif)

So, for the last 30 years I have left a significant amount of brake fluid internally inside the bleeder recess and threads. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

The first thing I do on a brake job is to check if I can break the bleeders loose as I have had more than my fair share of rusted stuck bleeders in the past.

I've done 2 more brake flushes since then and I now intentionally pick a needle tip that will fit tightly into the bleeder hole to allow me to clear the fluid from the bleeder threads and replace it with WD/40.

I should have been doing this all along...

Next time I hit a stuck one I'll change to pimp juice (acetone/ATF) to help loosen it as well.

Just a new "trick" I noticed that I wanted to share...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/ninja.gif)

[Jack Standz]

Hi @Ninja

Thanks for sharing and Happy Thanksgiving to you (and everyone)!

That's a cool idea and thoughtful to help out about the next guy by making it easier to open the bleeder valve without corrosion causing problems. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

To return the favor, here's a tool that can help you use a slide hammer to pull things out. When you need to do so. And still works like a regular vice grips and with the nut on there, you can use a 13mm wrench to tighten it down for a good grip.

[Jack Standz]

2nd photo

[Jack Standz]

Here's a modified grease cap that's setup for a slide hammer too, and similar to the vice grips, and after discovering 930 grease caps. Can't remember if it made me think about modifying the vice grips?

Who knows what next will have a nut welded on it? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Jack Standz]

Vice grips slide hammer attachment

[rjames]

Here's a modified grease cap that's setup for a slide hammer too, and similar to the vice grips, and after discovering 930 grease caps. Can't remember if it made me think about modifying the vice grips?

Who knows what next will have a nut welded on it? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Wish my wleds looked that good... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)

[Artfrombama]

Here's a modified grease cap that's setup for a slide hammer too, and similar to the vice grips, and after discovering 930 grease caps. Can't remember if it made me think about modifying the vice grips?

Who knows what next will have a nut welded on it? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/w00t.gif) Very clever!