'76 914 2.0 valve adjustment access Options

[Tom_in_NH]

I don't see how this can be done without removing the heater boxes on the later engines. Any hints or work arounds?

[rjames]

Stretch before undertaking the task and work on your flexibility. Kidding... but it's doable without removing the heat exchangers. I avoid removing the exchangers if at all possible for fear of pulling an exhaust stud.

[fiacra]

I don't see how this can be done without removing the heater boxes on the later engines. Any hints or work arounds?

I've never needed to that. Up on jackstands, or a lift, with the wheels removed. I use the following method, or a variation of it

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...alve+adjustment

[FlacaProductions]

Same as @fiacra . I've only done it twice and the fist time, I was intimidated. But once you're in there, it becomes clear. The higher you can get the car, the better, I think. I have an EZcarlift and it works well. Good lighting helps.
Go slow, check your work. You'll be fine.

Valve covers go back on the same orientation they came off if they're not leaking - if they are, try it with the VW logo upside down. I use Gask-a-cinch with standard cork gaskets - no leaks. They also didn't leak previous so that's a head start.

[Osnabruck914]

You don't have to remove the heat exchangers, but removing the heater boxes and associated tin sure does help.

Osnabruck914

[Tom_in_NH]

Thank you for the responses so far. But, I believe you are all referencing pre 1975 cars. The 1976 cars have a very different exhaust header/heat exchanger arrangement. See the photos below. The photo of just the heat exhangers doesnt show the header pipe that runs forward to the inlet flange of the heat exchanger.
There is a separate header that runs from the exhaust ports FORWARD to the very front of the heat exchanger. This brings the heat exchanger so far forward and further to the side, that it pretty much obscures access to the valves.

[barefoot]

Well, you can remove the heat exchangers on these models without disturbing the headers to cylinder heads so no risk of pulled studs. You'll probably need new bolts for 3 bolt flanges but that's easy. Good luck

Barefoot

[rjames]

Not much difference. Work mostly from the rear of the car. You can get your head above the exchanger to see what you're doing. Easier if the car is on a lift. IIRC, the hardest part is getting the valve covers removed and put back on with the lack of room for leverage. Replacing the valve covers is a little easier on the earlier cars because it's easier to accomplish this from above where the engine bar sits.
To remove the valve covers, use a big screw driver to pry one end of the cover retaining spring out. Much easier than trying to pull it down over the cover. Getting them back on is the hardest part.

Use Krusty's method of adjusting the valves which makes it doable without having to get out from under the car.

[Tom_in_NH]

Well, you can remove the heat exchangers on these models without disturbing the headers to cylinder heads so no risk of pulled studs. You'll probably need new bolts for 3 bolt flanges but that's easy. Good luck

Barefoot

Yes, thats exactly what I've been doing. Leaving the header pipes on the heads and removing the heater boxes. Dropping the engine support bar also helps tremendously in getting the heater boxes unbolted from the header pipes.
It's just that this is a major pain compared to the earlier cars. I thought there might be a secret sauce method to it that I'm not hip to !

Thanks

[rjames]

Well, you can remove the heat exchangers on these models without disturbing the headers to cylinder heads so no risk of pulled studs. You'll probably need new bolts for 3 bolt flanges but that's easy. Good luck

Barefoot

Yes, thats exactly what I've been doing. Leaving the header pipes on the heads and removing the heater boxes. Dropping the engine support bar also helps tremendously in getting the heater boxes unbolted from the header pipes.
It's just that this is a major pain compared to the earlier cars. I thought there might be a secret sauce method to it that I'm not hip to !

Thanks

The secret is to backdate the exhaust system. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[technicalninja]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

That's what I did!

Ripped that thermal reactor crap off, adjusted the valves, and put a normal set of SSI exchangers on.

You will need some earlier heater ducting parts if you want the heat to work as well.

I found what I needed in this forum's classified section.
Got the SSI exchangers here as well.

Keep the original exhaust crap, yours look NICE!

Tiny chance you might use some of it down the road.

The "header" pipes are a good start for a forced induction set up (turbo).

Someone who was looking to go "concours stock" might want that crap as well.

As it is a 76 the California crowd might KILL for it...

[Tom_in_NH]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

That's what I did!

Ripped that thermal reactor crap off, adjusted the valves, and put a normal set of SSI exchangers on.

You will need some earlier heater ducting parts if you want the heat to work as well.

I found what I needed in this forum's classified section.
Got the SSI exchangers here as well.

Keep the original exhaust crap, yours look NICE!

Tiny chance you might use some of it down the road.

The "header" pipes are a good start for a forced induction set up (turbo).

Someone who was looking to go "concours stock" might want that crap as well.

As it is a 76 the California crowd might KILL for it...

The car was in Santa Barbara since new. So, I've actually removed all of the California specific emissions stuff......air pump, air pump vavle and tubing, egr and associated tubing. I've kept all of it.
So yes, a switch to the early heat exchangers and associated extension ducts etc would be the ticket.

[technicalninja]

As that is actually real live California Emissions equipment it could be surprisingly valuable.

To me it's not worth a dime...

Wouldn't surprise me at all if you start getting PMs on the parts without a classified add.

That rubber drive puppy (in usable shape) is rare.



It's common for folks in the warmer climates to use the driver's side of the system. alone.

Many cars that had AC installed had the right side (passenger) capped off anyway.

So, to make it "usable" you'll really only need the left side parts.



The underside of your car really looks pretty good in the pic!

Show us the top (and others views)!



EDIT: When you change to the earlier exhaust system it's the whole SHEBANG!
You will also need the correct transmission hanger for whatever style you buy.
The bottom air shields on the engine are different too. These are the shields that attach to the HEs.

2.0L stuff is more valuable than 1.7/1.8L stuff.

The 1.8L parts will fit fine on a 2.0L

I couldn't see a performance difference; the pipes are the same diameter (I believe- might be wrong).

I went with 1.8L parts.
I prefer the Bursch style muffler systems as they provide a nice spot for a WB02 sensor.

[Tom_in_NH]

Ninja, here's the topside of that pain in the butt.....

[technicalninja]

The 914 IS nice!

And yet another gem like gold 911 shows up...

As a project too!