Help me diagnose why fuse 9 blows |
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Help me diagnose why fuse 9 blows |
rosenfe |
Jan 21 2022, 07:37 PM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 549 Joined: 14-October 13 From: northern california Member No.: 16,512 Region Association: None |
On my new to me 74 1.8 . Last week I had a passenger in the front seat. Seat belt light flashing, no start. I had forgotten that belt has to be buckled for it to start. I jumped starter and we got home.At the same tome dash lights and console instruments went dark and alternator light came on. Fuse 9 was blown. What if any relationship between them. Does fuse 9 have some impact on this !
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falcor75 |
Jan 22 2022, 12:46 AM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,579 Joined: 22-November 12 From: Sweden Member No.: 15,176 Region Association: Scandinavia |
On my new to me 74 1.8 . Last week I had a passenger in the front seat. Seat belt light flashing, no start. I had forgotten that belt has to be buckled for it to start. I jumped starter and we got home.At the same tome dash lights and console instruments went dark and alternator light came on. Fuse 9 was blown. What if any relationship between them. Does fuse 9 have some impact on this ! It could be a number of things none directly connected to what you have mentioned. All the instruments powered by it including the center console Left rear stop and revers lights Time to arm yourself with a bunch of fuses and methodically try to backtrack the issue. |
Superhawk996 |
Jan 22 2022, 10:29 AM
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#3
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,726 Joined: 25-August 18 From: Woods of N. Idaho Member No.: 22,428 Region Association: Galt's Gulch |
I'm going to suggest a different approach.
Arm yourself with a Digital Multi-Meter (DMM). Measure resistance to ground on both sides of the fuse block. Fuses blow for a reason - by doing so they protect the wiring. Don't just start plugging fuses back in and waiting for them to blow. By doing that you are repeatedly exposing the wiring to an overcurrent condition. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) It's a good way to melt wiring while you troubleshoot. A DMM allows you to troubleshoot it without flowing high current. If you don't already have a DMM - go buy one. If you don't know how to use one, get on Google and spend some time with a 9V battery and some spare wire. A DMM will be one of the best tool investments you ever made. Can test batteries, test household wiring, capacitors, relays, diodes, etc. You'll wonder how you ever lived without one. And equally as importantly, use a wiring schematic. Again, if you don't know how to read one, now is the time to learn. Randomly chasing things around trial and error without a DMM and a schematic is a waste of time. |
Puebloswatcop |
Jan 24 2022, 12:00 PM
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#4
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,370 Joined: 27-December 14 From: Mineola, Texas Member No.: 18,258 Region Association: Southwest Region |
Fuse 9 does in fact have a direct corelation to the seatbelt system, both at the seatbelt warning light and the seatbelt warning system relay. The other feed it has are the brake switch and reverse switch, so check to be sure your reverse and stop switches or lights arent creating an issue.
I would suspect that if the problem never occurred until someone sat in the passenger seat, the problem may well be somewhere in that circuit. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) |
DC_neun_vierzehn |
Jan 24 2022, 09:40 PM
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#5
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Member Group: Members Posts: 376 Joined: 16-November 20 From: Delaware Shore Member No.: 24,893 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
I'm going to suggest a different approach. Arm yourself with a Digital Multi-Meter (DMM). Measure resistance to ground on both sides of the fuse block. Fuses blow for a reason - by doing so they protect the wiring. Don't just start plugging fuses back in and waiting for them to blow. By doing that you are repeatedly exposing the wiring to an overcurrent condition. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) It's a good way to melt wiring while you troubleshoot. A DMM allows you to troubleshoot it without flowing high current. If you don't already have a DMM - go buy one. If you don't know how to use one, get on Google and spend some time with a 9V battery and some spare wire. A DMM will be one of the best tool investments you ever made. Can test batteries, test household wiring, capacitors, relays, diodes, etc. You'll wonder how you ever lived without one. And equally as importantly, use a wiring schematic. Again, if you don't know how to read one, now is the time to learn. Randomly chasing things around trial and error without a DMM and a schematic is a waste of time. Can you recommend a good DMM? |
wonkipop |
Jan 24 2022, 10:24 PM
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#6
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 4,238 Joined: 6-May 20 From: north antarctica Member No.: 24,231 Region Association: NineFourteenerVille |
Fuse 9 does in fact have a direct corelation to the seatbelt system, both at the seatbelt warning light and the seatbelt warning system relay. The other feed it has are the brake switch and reverse switch, so check to be sure your reverse and stop switches or lights arent creating an issue. I would suspect that if the problem never occurred until someone sat in the passenger seat, the problem may well be somewhere in that circuit. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) yep. been there done that 30 years ago. multiple head injuries on brick wall moment. |
dhuckabay |
Jan 24 2022, 10:44 PM
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#7
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Member Group: Members Posts: 220 Joined: 14-June 20 From: Idaho Member No.: 24,379 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
For what you are doing any cheap one will work to measure ohms. Harbor Freight has one under $10. No reason to buy an expensive Fluke for this.
I'm going to suggest a different approach. Arm yourself with a Digital Multi-Meter (DMM). Measure resistance to ground on both sides of the fuse block. Fuses blow for a reason - by doing so they protect the wiring. Don't just start plugging fuses back in and waiting for them to blow. By doing that you are repeatedly exposing the wiring to an overcurrent condition. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) It's a good way to melt wiring while you troubleshoot. A DMM allows you to troubleshoot it without flowing high current. If you don't already have a DMM - go buy one. If you don't know how to use one, get on Google and spend some time with a 9V battery and some spare wire. A DMM will be one of the best tool investments you ever made. Can test batteries, test household wiring, capacitors, relays, diodes, etc. You'll wonder how you ever lived without one. And equally as importantly, use a wiring schematic. Again, if you don't know how to read one, now is the time to learn. Randomly chasing things around trial and error without a DMM and a schematic is a waste of time. Can you recommend a good DMM? |
76-914 |
Jan 24 2022, 11:15 PM
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#8
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Repeat Offender & Resident Subaru Antagonist Group: Members Posts: 13,485 Joined: 23-January 09 From: Temecula, CA Member No.: 9,964 Region Association: Southern California |
An auto ranging Fluke is pricey but they are worth it over time. I've had mine for 30+ years. However if you won't be using it much get the Harbor Freight unit. Get one that measures Amps as well. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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jrmdir |
Jan 25 2022, 07:03 AM
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#9
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Member Group: Members Posts: 224 Joined: 13-May 21 From: Central Ohio Member No.: 25,544 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
If, like me, you live closer to a Lowes than HF, they have a Kobalt brand meter for $20. Looks a bit more durable than the HF one. Would imagine Home Depot has similar.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Mini-Multimeter/5001927061 Ron |
Superhawk996 |
Jan 25 2022, 07:06 AM
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#10
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,726 Joined: 25-August 18 From: Woods of N. Idaho Member No.: 22,428 Region Association: Galt's Gulch |
Fluke is the gold standard but indeed they are pricey.
I've had great luck with HF higher end DMM's. Latest is AMES DM1010. Very happy with it. $95 or so. https://www.harborfreight.com/dm1010-profes...eter-64021.html I also have a couple of the Cen Tech 14 in 1 units like this for over 5 years. https://www.harborfreight.com/5-in-1-digita...eter-98674.html They are OK but sometimes the resistance mesurement locks up if switching the selector switch too quickly. Its a quirk but not a fatal flaw. Not bad for units that I toss around in cars and consisder semi-expendable. These are about $79 but I think they are no longer making them and just selling out existing inventory or so it would seem in my local store. Both are capable of measurement of 10A current (and fused) which is a key feature for me. There are times you may want to monitor Ignition off Current Draw - can't do that without a current measurement mode. |
jrmdir |
Jan 25 2022, 08:30 AM
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#11
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Member Group: Members Posts: 224 Joined: 13-May 21 From: Central Ohio Member No.: 25,544 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Rosenfe: Back to your episode description - what do you mean by "I jumped the starter"?
What specifically did you do? The sequence of events might help narrow the search. Ron |
rosenfe |
Jan 25 2022, 11:23 AM
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#12
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 549 Joined: 14-October 13 From: northern california Member No.: 16,512 Region Association: None |
Finally took to local Indy. Turn signal bad. All good now
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