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> 1976 914 2.0, The project continues on
colingreene
post Oct 31 2013, 12:23 PM
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Thought I would introduce myself here, My name is Colin.
This is one of the first and most informitive 914 forums i found.
Having grown up with the automotive forum culture i figured i would show you all what i bought.
I just picked up a 1976 914 2.0
for

500$ seriously.
Problem is as you can see in this picture.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i821.photobucket.com-16526-1383243790.1.jpg)
It needs a bit of work.
the previous owner used this car as a daily driver till the clutch delaminated. he then removed the motor took the trans appart and well, lost interest.
his mess is now my problem
However it could be worse, its a clean straight car and its got most if not all of its paint on it.
While the trans was apart i took it to my local and trusted trans shop but came back with a bill for 1725 to replace all the bearings and synchros. Ouch.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i821.photobucket.com-16526-1383243790.2.jpg)

then started tearing the motor down to clean the tin and probably powder coat it.
this car will bankrupt me.
The previous owner said that it ran great and had no leaks.
Right.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i821.photobucket.com-16526-1383243790.3.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i821.photobucket.com-16526-1383243790.4.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i821.photobucket.com-16526-1383243790.5.jpg)

Also came with these wheels
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i821.photobucket.com-16526-1383243791.6.jpg)

My friend bought one also (A 71) for 500$
heres the two of them together
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i821.photobucket.com-16526-1383243791.7.jpg)

Ive read so many threads to inspire me to get off my ass and do something with my car so hopefully i can take the things i have learned here and really apply it.
I only have a few questions i cant find the answers to so ill just throw it out there.

Should i bother keeping the stock fuel injection if i want to have some sembalance of performance.
and will the stock fuel injection take to being modified say, headers maybe a mild cam?
How will the car perform stock ish,
while the motor is out is there any must do jobs?
Ive been looking at re enforcing the trailing arms and potentially the brackets for them.
as well as adding the J west shifter stuff.
the shocks and such will need to be replaced, any recommendations for a road car that id like to just handle well, I have one car on race suspension (Ast) and i don't know that i want another one.
And what material is the fan housing, is it aluminum or magnesium, can i get it anodized to protect it?
The car has been sitting for 10 years so the brakes are slightly borked, worth it to keep the stock calipers or do they need an upgrade.
other than that the car only has mild rust here and there ( the hell hole is good the battery tray is mediocre) and it appears that i might have wound up with a decent car.

Thanks for all the help in advance i look forward to getting this poor car back on the road.
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Brian Mifsud
post Oct 31 2013, 12:43 PM
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Welcome to the site. Great people here. You will enjoy it.

If you are going to register the car in California, you will need to pass smog. 1975 model years and older are exempt. Dave Darling told me that for SOME 1976 models (they were ALL built in 1975 but sold as "1976"), people demonstrated to the state that their cars were old enough to be exempt from inspection.

If you don't have all the right smog gear, let me know. I've been accumulating it for spares and for people who need missing components.
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walterolin
post Oct 31 2013, 12:55 PM
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Welcome, it is a great site.

Get in touch with Dr. Evil about your transmission. I went to his clinic in Canada in June and got my tailshifter 901 rebuilt with a lot of parts for $650.00. Might be easier to buy another one.

The consensus on this site is to keep the FI and learn how to keep it up. Carb changeover apparently is not as simple as it seems at first. There is a thread running right now styled "I Hate My Carbs".

Again, welcome, I've met a bunch of nice people here.

Walter Olin
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7TPorsh
post Oct 31 2013, 12:59 PM
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Welcome...what part of SoCal?
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914itis
post Oct 31 2013, 01:12 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

If you didn't let the mechanic do the job on the tranny yet, out great dr evil here will rebuilt it for maybe half of that. He used good used parts from salvaged transmissions but we don't have any complaints he will do a great job. Shipping it to him is about 80 bucks if you follow his instructions.
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pt_700
post Oct 31 2013, 01:29 PM
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welcome to the madness!

besides what's already said, ask here before spending more than $100!

let's revise... ask here before spending anything!
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dcheek
post Oct 31 2013, 01:42 PM
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If you need specific pictures as to what goes where, or what you are missing, I can send pictures. My '76 is bone stock, and I've owned it since day one.

Let the "fun" (read work your ass off) begin.

Dave
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Cupomeat
post Oct 31 2013, 01:51 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)
And from what I've seen you got a steal (Given the fuchs wheels are worth more than the $500 you paid).
Take your time, ask LOTS of questions and here is my advice;
1. Go find a core transmission and rebuild it using the video (you have spare parts with the other trans)
2. Stick with the FI as it will make your car smoother and much better on gas mileage than carbs without lots of work.
3. Stick with the FI as it is likely you will legally have to to drive it on the road. A 76 2.0 is a fun car to drive!
4. Take pictures of the hell hole, the longs, the pedal area, the rear firewall (behind the seats) and post them. You should attack the rust first as all the rest is relatively easy comparatively. Plus if you have a solid chassis, the rest is SO much more fun.
5. Enjoy having a friend with another 914 that you can swap parts, and rebuild them together. I bought a 75 basket case (like yours) in 1987 and still own it. It will be part of you.

HAve fun, welcome and we are here to help (yes you'll take some abuse, but it is worth it!)
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76-914
post Oct 31 2013, 03:19 PM
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Toluene is your friend come smog time.
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SLITS
post Oct 31 2013, 03:47 PM
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"This Utah shit is HARSH!"
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He should come to the G&R and be insulted!
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Brian Mifsud
post Oct 31 2013, 04:11 PM
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QUOTE(76-914 @ Oct 31 2013, 02:19 PM) *

Toluene is your friend come smog time.



Toluene....Pray tell???

I've always passed just by adjusting the valves even though my converter was totally empty. Since then I've moved up in the world and have my "Sunday" catalytic converter installed with genuine Platinum inside.

Does the Toluene reduce NOx?

Or do you just pour some in the smog guys coffee when he's not lookin'

How much do you add?
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SLITS
post Oct 31 2013, 04:31 PM
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QUOTE(Brian Mifsud @ Oct 31 2013, 03:11 PM) *

How much do you add?


10% by volume .. alcohol works too!
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colingreene
post Oct 31 2013, 09:21 PM
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what part of the longs do you want to see?
I can take pictures of the rest of it.
Also thank you for the offer but the Previous owner did include the apparently somewhat rare and hard to find working air pump.
I should have all the smog stuff to keep it legal. (kinda neat) Though i don't care that much.... I want to try to petition it to not be smogged.
its ridiculous that CA wants to emissions test a 37 year old Vehicle A Holes....
id prefer to have the factory injection working but
at the same time i want to know if its only ever going to run the car in a factory configuration.
thats my key question here.
Ive been around aircooled Vw/Porsche stuff my whole life.
(dads first car is a 70 beetle with a 1907 (92x74) with dual DCN14's)
So i know what it takes to run carbs.
Would prefer the fuel injection though.

For the person who asked I am in South Orange County.

My friends car has the carbs on a 2.0L bus motor. not sure if this is a good thing to have, its just what it came with. It might wind up with a new motor as the oil looked dubious when i drained it. its got Webber 44 IDF's on it.
I found a complete 1.7/1.8 motor for 300 the guy who has it says that it wont stay in second gear however.
My wheels I am unsure how to proceed in re finishing them. From what i read they are Anodized, I have a friend who can strip and re anodize them so i might do that if thats what we confirm here they are then re paint them.

As far as the trans goes, I am not real comfortable putting used parts into my trans, Id prefer to have all new parts. and thats where most of the cost has been generated.
He did my dads bug transmission and it came out fabulous so i could think of worse things than spending my money on something that will only need to be done once.
I know that Jim at Der Transaxle will stand behind it should it ever have any problems.
However Ill suggust the Dr.Evil route to my friend about his car as hes got less of a budget than I do.
After finding this website i dont feel so bad about my car not being a 911...
or a 914-6... though the guy i got my car from has one and apparently wants 15k for it, not sure how good of a price that is.
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euro911
post Oct 31 2013, 10:25 PM
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Your transaxle may not need all new parts, and some parts, like first gear, are almost unobtainable (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) - so don't discount rebuilding with some used parts.

There are several guys out here that can rebuild your trans for a reasonable price. $1700 is plain outrageous, and that price may include some 'used' parts as well.

I agree, keep the FI system intact, especially if you plan to keep the car in CA.

Remove the side rocker panels and check for rust where the longs swoop down from the engine compartment to the cockpit area, especially the passenger side, below the battery ('hell hole') area.

Stock brakes are adequate for low HP (stock) cars. Porterfield pads are good.

If you plan for 150+ HP, you might want to think about larger, vented rotors and 911 'M' calipers up front.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)
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rhodyguy
post Nov 1 2013, 08:22 AM
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out.
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look on the rear of the wheels. if there is a fox head and/or the #914 361 011 01 they're the real deal. tread lightly on stripping the paint. the one pictured looks to be in nice shape. hate the stick on weights on the outer lip.

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colingreene
post Nov 1 2013, 11:37 AM
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Ill get some pictures when i go up to see my car today.
Addtionally ill try to take pictures of the slight bits of rust i have found on the car.
As far as upgrading the brakes its a moot point if its a California car and I cant uprate the motor right....
the wheels i have a better picture of ill get that up here in a second.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i821.photobucket.com-16526-1383327531.1.jpg)
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Cupomeat
post Nov 1 2013, 11:59 AM
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QUOTE(colingreene @ Nov 1 2013, 01:37 PM) *

Ill get some pictures when i go up to see my car today.
Addtionally ill try to take pictures of the slight bits of rust i have found on the car.
As far as upgrading the brakes its a moot point if its a California car and I cant uprate the motor right....
the wheels i have a better picture of ill get that up here in a second.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i821.photobucket.com-16526-1383327531.1.jpg)

That SIR, is the real deal wheel...

I love assonance... Yup, I'm a dork (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

For picks, I think Euro911 had it, but just look for rust and post pix of the worst areas. in the corner in front of the battery is a critical area.
Agree that used parts in a 901 trans rebuild are almost a given now. Plus, some parts, like synchros are the same 1st-5th and the upper gears barely wear on them so you may as well reuse them.

Don't buy new unless you have reason or it is an obvious end of life situation.

ANyway you slice it, you have lots of work and a GREAT time ahead of you with this car. Where are you on the motor? Given your tear down, you may as well pull the heads, check the condition and re-ring the pistons (If the motor has sat very long) and then put it back together and start working on the FI.
Replace ALL the fuel hoses with the latest ethanol friendly stuff.

Good luck and post questions, we are here to help (wish it was available when I was doing my first 914)

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Dave_Darling
post Nov 1 2013, 12:47 PM
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They are indeed the real thing. But the real wheels were not painted at the factory. They were often painted at the dealer to imitate the five-bolt "windmill" Fuchs wheels, or by an owner who liked the painted look better.

The paint will have been applied over the stock anodization, unless someone removed that prior to painting. The black stuff itself is almost certainly not the anodizing.

--DD
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Brian Mifsud
post Nov 1 2013, 02:22 PM
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QUOTE(colingreene @ Oct 31 2013, 08:21 PM) *



I should have all the smog stuff to keep it legal. (kinda neat) Though i don't care that much.... I want to try to petition it to not be smogged.
its ridiculous that CA wants to emissions test a 37 year old Vehicle A Holes....


I have a question for you, do you know how to get through this requirement (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) ?


(This is from http://www.bar.ca.gov/80_BARResources/02_S...ns_Part_1.html)

"Question: What vehicle model years are required to get a biennial smog check?

Answer: For gas-powered vehicles the 1976 model year is the earliest model year vehicle required to participate in the biennial Smog Check Program. Vehicles six years old and newer are not required to participate in the biennial Smog Check Program.
For diesel-powered vehicles 1998 model year and newer 14,000lbs and less are subject to the biennial Smog Check Pragram. The six year exemption does not apply to diesel vehicles.

Question: My 1976 model year vehicle was built in 1975. Why isn't it exempt from Smog Check?

Answer: Many 1976 model vehicles were built in 1975; however, the Smog Check exemption is based on model year, not date of manufacture, so these vehicles are not exempt."

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arcadeforever
post Nov 1 2013, 05:48 PM
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Welcome Colin, your car looks to be in amazing condition. Great find!!!

Wayne
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